The Zambezi River is the fourth longest river in Africa, flowing east for over 2,700 kilometres from its source in north-western Zambia to the Indian Ocean in Mozambique. Along the way it carves through wild terrain, crashing over the world-famous Victoria Falls and filling the vast reservoir behind the Kariba Dam before reaching the floodplains and national parks of Zambia and Zimbabwe. It is here, where the river is wide and languid, that canoeing on the Zambezi is an absolute joy.
Being on the water gives you a fresh perspective compared to walking or vehicle safaris. You feel more exposed, more in tune with the wild—and that vulnerability adds to the experience. Clambering out onto a sandbank two hours later for sundowners feels like an earned reward.
You also gain a deep appreciation for your guides—their skill and years of experience reading the river are what keep you safe.
Where to Go Canoeing on the Zambezi
Canoeing on the Zambezi can be enjoyed both upstream and downstream of Victoria Falls. Around the falls themselves, the Middle Zambezi is known for world-class white water rafting, but further downstream it transforms into a more tranquil and scenic waterway.
The section of the river that flows between Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park and Zambia’s Lower Zambezi National Park is particularly special. Here, the river meanders between conservation areas home to some of Africa’s most iconic wildlife.
My Experience Canoeing in Mana Pools
I canoed from Zambezi Expeditions Camp in Zimbabwe’s Mana Pools National Park, a semi-mobile bush camp set up right on the riverbank. The camp offers a range of activities including 4×4 game drives, walking, fishing and canoeing on the Zambezi.
After lunch, we set out on a short game drive upstream to reach our launch point. Our guide, Cloud, gave us a full safety briefing on the riverbank before we got into the canoes.
Each canoe held two guests and one guide seated in the stern. We were provided with life vests and paddles, and given clear instructions: stay in line, follow closely behind the canoe ahead, and be alert for signs of wildlife. Cloud explained how he would ‘communicate’ with the hippos—by tapping the canoe or slapping the water with his paddle to encourage them to move away. We were also advised not to dangle anything over the side and to keep an eye out for V-shaped ripples that might signal submerged hazards. The briefing was met with sombre faces.
Cloud recommended afternoons as the best time for canoeing—cooler, quieter, and with softer light. He described it as a “wonderfully relaxing way to spend an afternoon.”
We launched around 3pm. It wasn’t immediately “relaxing,” as billed, as we navigated the shallows by the riverbank with large pods of noisy hippos—one moment reassuringly visible, and the next gone. The menacing outlines of crocodiles were everywhere—slithering into the water or carving silent trails towards us. Our four canoes struggled at first to stay in formation, and I don’t think I was the only one feeling a little nervous in a small, rather unstable boat.
But once we reached the deeper channel in the middle of the river and were paddling downstream more freely with the sun on our backs, the scale of the place really hit me. It’s impossible not to feel in awe of the landscape and the life it supports.
The trip lasted about two hours, ending close to camp just in time for sundowners and a breathtaking sunset.
Wildlife and Scenery
The views along the river were stunning. We saw the Zambian escarpment lit golden by the afternoon sun, birds flitting across the water, and the silhouettes of trees and islands reflected in the still surface. Wildlife sightings included waterbuck, crocodiles, large pods of hippos, and an abundance of birdlife—kingfishers, bee-eaters, Goliath herons, fish eagles, and more.
The highlight was a group of bull elephants grazing quietly on a river island. Our guide had told us we might not see elephants in the river in April, as the water levels are still high following the rainy season, so it was a special moment. The best time for seeing elephants in the river is from July to September.
Is Canoeing on the Zambezi Relaxing?
The activity was described as relaxing—and once we had navigated away from the densely populated hippo zones it really was. But there’s no denying the adrenaline factor that comes with this activity and the errant thought that a hippo might upturn your boat at any given moment. That’s where the experience and calm leadership of your guides comes in. Cloud’s steady confidence and clear knowledge of the river made the journey feel measured and fun. We even played a few games and enjoyed racing each other as we came into the landing point, well clear of any hippos.
What to Wear and Bring
Dress for the sun. I wore a wide-brimmed hat and lightweight clothing. Sunglasses protect your eyes from the glare, and a scarf or kikoi is useful for extra shade. A dry bag is essential for your camera or phone. There’s limited space in the canoe, so pack light. Suncream, insect repellent, and a water bottle are also must-haves. Most of us wore sturdy sandals which we kicked off while in the canoe.
The canoe seats had padded back supports which made the afternoon more comfortable and I was able to sit with my legs stretched out in front of me or crossed.
Final Thoughts
Canoeing the Zambezi was a great contrast to the other safari activities on offer in Mana Pools. It gave me a different perspective on the landscape and its rhythms, and a real appreciation for the skill of our river guiding team.
And yes, finishing the day with a G&T on the riverbank beneath a blood-red African sky was every bit as good as it sounds.
