If you’re looking for a safari experience that steps away from the crowds and feels deeply personal, Ol Donyo Lodge delivers. Tucked into the rolling Chyulu Hills of southern Kenya, between Amboseli and Tsavo National Parks, this is one of the country’s most exclusive safari hideaways. It’s a place where you wake to the sight of Mount Kilimanjaro glowing pink on the horizon and end your days with sundowners by a waterhole, elephants quietly drinking below.
Setting & First Impressions
Ol Donyo sits within the vast 275,000-acre Mbirikani Group Ranch, owned by the local Maasai community. Getting here feels like part of the adventure – a short flight from Nairobi to the lodge’s private airstrip followed by a game drive to the property. The lodge is beautifully remote, making it the perfect place to end a safari circuit or celebrate a special occasion.
Admittedly, this is not the best place in Kenya for sheer wildlife density – you won’t find the big herds of the Mara here – but what it lacks in numbers, it makes up for in exclusivity, scenery, and heart-stopping elephant encounters.
Suites & Star Beds
The lodge offers eight deluxe suites and one family suite, each cleverly designed to blend Swahili and Maasai influences. Think natural textures, neutral tones, and wide open spaces leading out to private plunge pools and views that seem to stretch forever. One of the standout features is the star bed, set on your private rooftop – although on our visit in April, the occasional showers meant we didn’t get to try it. If you’re visiting in the dry season, don’t miss the chance to sleep under the stars.
It’s worth noting the thoughtful touches in the rooms too – a tea chest, bug spray, even yoga mats – all delivered with an understated elegance.
Activities, Wildlife & Conservation
Days at Ol Donyo are entirely flexible. You can choose from classic game drives, excellent walking safaris led by Maasai guides, mountain biking, or even a horseback safari across the open plains. For keen photographers, the hide overlooking the waterhole is an unmissable spot, especially when the legendary ‘Super Tuskers’ – elephants with impossibly long tusks – arrive to drink.
During our three-night stay, wildlife sightings were varied and memorable. Kilimanjaro’s snow-capped peak made a couple of dramatic dawn appearances, though it mostly hid behind cloud. Elephant encounters were a real highlight – including a spellbinding hour with ‘One Tonne,’ a colossal bull, down at the log pile hide. We were also lucky enough to spot cheetah, which can be elusive here. Giraffe were ever-present, browsing alongside zebra and antelope, and there was something truly magical about sharing our bush breakfast surrounded by them. Birdlife was abundant too, from lilac-breasted rollers to secretary birds stalking the plains.
We particularly enjoyed the chance to get involved behind the scenes with local conservation efforts. A visit to Big Life Foundation’s canine unit (available for a small donation) offered a unique insight into anti-poaching work in the area.
Dining & Service
Meals here are a real highlight. Expect fresh, locally sourced ingredients, flexible dining options, and some of the best bush breakfasts we’ve had anywhere in Africa. Lunches are relaxed and varied, while dinners are more formal, typically served communally in the main dining area – a great opportunity to swap stories with fellow guests.
The service strikes the perfect balance between warm and professional. Many of the staff come from nearby Maasai communities, and the guiding is top-notch – informed, passionate, and refreshingly honest about the realities of the wildlife in the area.
Final Thoughts
Ol Donyo Lodge isn’t about ticking off the Big Five in a day. It’s about slowing down, soaking up the landscape, and enjoying an intimate, luxurious safari with purpose. If you’re a seasoned safari traveller, a horse-riding enthusiast, or a couple looking for somewhere truly special, this is the place. For families with very young children or anyone seeking wall-to-wall game viewing, there are better options. But for those wanting to end a Kenyan adventure on a high, Ol Donyo is hard to beat.
Sara travelled with Explorers Against Extinction, staying at Ol Donyo Lodge for 3 nights with her family.
