Shaun Jeary was hired as part of a specialist UK team to travel to Deception Island in the Antarctic to remove graffiti left by a visitor on the old whaling station. Here is his account of this amazing trip and inspiration why you should visit Deception Island too.
In the icy waters of the Southern Ocean, just off the Antarctic Peninsula, lies one of the most extraordinary and eerie places I’ve ever set foot on—Deception Island. A dramatic ring of volcanic rock encircling a flooded caldera, this surreal landscape is steeped in stories of explorers, whalers, scientists, and eruptions. It’s one of the few places on Earth where history, geology, and adventure meet in such dramatic fashion.
We – myself and two colleagues- had been brought there by Oceanwide Expeditions who were paying for the old whaling station to be cleaned of the graffiti left there two months before. You might wonder as to the mentality of the people who want to deface such a unique location, but there are those who compete online to leave their tag in the most remote locations on earth. Its turned out to be a costly hobby in this case – the culprit was traced through images he posted online and is now serving three years in prison. The skipper of the private yacht he was travelling on has lost his license and been fined Euro 200,000.
An overnight flight to Buenos Aires from the UK, followed by connecting flight took us to Ushuaia on the southern tip of South America. Here we were briefed by IAATO (International Association of Antarctic Tour Operators), as the island is protected by the Antarctic Treaty System as an Antarctic Specially Managed Area. It transpired we were the first people with permission to camp on the island since 1969 – researchers and visitors these days all have to sleep on board their vessels. After years of exploitation, Deception Island is slowly returning to a pristine, and unique, wilderness.
A Volcanic Anomaly
Unlike most of Antarctica’s white wilderness, Deception Island is black. Its volcanic origins are visible in the dark sands and jagged cliffs that rise above the icy sea. The island is the exposed part of an active volcano, its horseshoe shape formed when the central caldera collapsed during an eruption thousands of years ago. The sea flooded in, creating a natural harbour—Port Foster—that’s still used by ships today.
Access is through a narrow, cliff-lined entrance called Neptune’s Bellows. Entering the caldera by ship is unforgettable. Steam sometimes rises from the beach. The air smells faintly of sulphur. And if you touch the ground, you’ll find it warm. The volcanic activity here isn’t just in the past—it’s still very much alive. In the last big eruption in 1969 the water level within the harbour dropped right away immediately before the eruption, as if draining into the depths of the earth.
Sealing and the First Visitors
Deception Island first entered the history books in the early 1820s, when British and American sealers arrived in the South Shetland Islands. They were chasing fur seals, whose pelts were in high demand. The calm waters of Port Foster made it a perfect base, and within just a few seasons, tens of thousands of seals were killed.
Happily the population has recovered now that Deception is so well protected. Fur seals, Weddell seals and elephant seals are all once more living and breeding in colonies on the island.
Among the early explorers was Edward Bransfield, a British naval officer who charted parts of the South Shetlands in 1820. Though not a household name today, Bransfield was one of the first to lay eyes on the Antarctic continent itself. His maps helped pave the way for future explorers.
The Whaling Boom
Sealing died out quickly, but the island got a second life in the early 20th century when Norwegian whalers set up operations. In 1906, a floating whaling factory arrived. By 1912, the Hektor Whaling Company had built a permanent shore station. Whales were dragged ashore, flensed, and processed for oil. Rusting boilers, storage tanks, and whale bones still litter the beach today.
One of the cruise boats that arrived during our stay on the island had a small submarine. Talking to the crew, they told that the entire bed of the bay is still completely covered with the bones of these whales – a gruesome reminder of this cruel trade.
At its peak, this was a busy industrial outpost in the middle of nowhere—complete with workshops, accommodation blocks, and giant vats of whale oil. Operations continued until the 1930s, when whale populations declined and the economics changed.
We saw both sperm and humpback whales during our trip. Their populations have grown since whaling was outlawed but they now face a new threat, also man made. Several deaths have been reported and investigated, and it seems a cause of their death was plastic clogging their feeding beards, making them unable to feed properly.
A Battleground of Flags and Science
Fast forward to the 1940s and 50s, and Deception Island was suddenly on the geopolitical radar. Britain, Argentina, and Chile all laid claims and established research stations—sometimes just a few hundred metres apart. Britain’s base at Whalers Bay was part of a secret wartime mission that evolved into the British Antarctic Survey.
The volcanic activity made Deception an attractive location for scientific research. But nature proved to be a volatile landlord. In 1967 and again in 1969, massive eruptions destroyed parts of the British and Chilean stations. Lava flowed across the landscape, reshaping beaches and burying buildings. The island was evacuated. Nothing grows here other than a few unique species of moss and lichen that cling on to life in crevices and on rocks in the lee of the prevailing winds.
Famous (and Infamous) Visitors
While it doesn’t have quite the same celebrity status as some other Antarctic landmarks, Deception Island has attracted its share of notable visitors. Early explorers like Nathaniel Palmer and James Weddell—after whom the Weddell Sea is named—almost certainly passed through. Edward Bransfield’s maps include Deception. And in more recent years, documentary crews, including those working with Sir David Attenborough, have featured the island in natural history programmes.
Its eerie, elemental beauty has also inspired writers, poets, and artists. Standing there, with steam rising from the beach and glaciers looming beyond, it’s easy to see why.
Visiting Deception Island Today
When I visited Deception Island, we travelled on an old Russian Icebreaker that was taking visitors on a longer cruise of the region. The three days it took to reach the island, crossing the infamous Drakes Passage, bright, clear and calm, giving us time to get our equipment and supplies sorted and packed. As our ship slipped through Neptune’s Bellows, I felt like we were entering another world. The contrast between the black volcanic sand and the white snow-covered peaks is stark and unforgettable.
Once ashore at Whalers Bay, we established our camp and viewed the ruins of the old whaling station. Rusted tanks, collapsed wooden buildings, and the skeletal remains of a small aircraft and a Massey Ferguson Tractor, half buried in ash from the 1969 eruption and giving the beach a post-apocalyptic feel. It’s haunting, but also fascinating—a frozen moment in time. The graffiti with its bright colours was completely out of place in such a place of desolation.
Our camp consisted of two dome tents – one for sleeping, the other for living in. The area around the camp was marked out with snow poles with a corridor to the old hanger on which the graffiti was located. We had to remain within this area. We were allowed one small gas stove. Our food was provided as boil-in-the-bag prepared meals (in case you ever have to choose, don’t go for the squid option..) All waste, urine included, had to be collected and removed from the island when we left.
One thing we hadn’t planned for was the midnight sun – it never got dark. In the tents it was always light – and cold. At night the average temperature during our 5 night stay was -22. During the day it got up to -10. We had thermal survival suits to keep us warm and they were needed.
Our first day went well. The chemical we’d been given to use in such an environmentally sensitive area was not strong, but as the tin buildings warmed in the sun it reacted with the paint and made it easier to scrub away. By the end of the day we’d cleaned about one third of the graffiti and we’re confident of finishing on time – and in time for the return of the ship in 5 days time to collect us.
Chinstrap penguins wandered near to the camp, kelp gulls flew past and on one occasion a huge albatross soared past us. It was a job like no other on earth. Our TV replacement at night was watching the chinstrap penguin parents playing chase with their young, not in some game but trying to get them exercising to strengthen their legs. It was very amusing to see the disgruntled teenage chicks waddling around.
That night though a storm came in. Snow, wind and bitter cold. We emerged next morning to a white-out landscape. Without the sun the chemicals no longer reacted, meaning the only way to remove the paint was thought hard scrubbing. As we sat working on the old hanger, water ran off the gutter-free roof, falling directly onto our heads as we worked, making it a miserable experience.
Sitting for hours scrubbing – the pink paint was the most stubborn to remove – water slowly made its way inside our thermal suits. We’d spread out plastic sheets to catch any chemical residue from our workings, and the water from the roof hitting this, combined with the whine of the wind became our background soundtrack for the next few days.
With no heat source other than the small stove, it was very hard to get warm. In the days of the whalers heat was not a problem. If you dug down 50 cm into the soft, volcanic sand on the nearby beach, hot water emerged, heated by the geothermal activity below. The whalers could sit and camp here, as the heat rose around them. Sadly for us, due to the strict conservation laws governing the island, we were not allowed to disturb the foreshore in any way. Standing on the beach you couldn’t feel the heat but the smell of sulphur hinted at what lay below. If you visit Deception Island, bring VERY warm clothes.
On the sixth day the boat returned, its crew and guests peering out at us to see how we had faired. We packed everything away, leaving only footprints in the snow for when the scientists came to sample the soil around our work area to monitor any pollution. Later, we learnt, there was none.
Our captain informed us that we’d had the best crossing of the season of Drakes Passage on the way out and the worst on our return, with 15 metre waves rolling the ship like a cork. But at least it was warm.
A Living Museum
Today, the Island is protected under the Antarctic Treaty System as an Antarctic Specially Managed Area. No one lives here, but research teams still visit Deception Island seasonally. Tourism is strictly controlled to prevent damage to the island’s fragile environment and historic structures, but with 15,000 visitors a year arriving by ship, incidents like this one can, and do, happen.
It’s not a place you stumble upon. Getting here requires time, effort, and usually an Antarctic cruise. But if you ever get the chance, go. It’s not just a beautiful place—it’s a meaningful one. Deception Island tells the story of Antarctica’s human history, from exploitation to exploration to protection. It’s a place where the Earth breathes—quietly, sometimes dangerously—beneath your feet.
FAQ
Where is Deception Island?
Deception Island lies in the South Shetland Islands, just off the Antarctic Peninsula. Shaped like a ring due to its volcanic origins, this otherworldly spot is one of the few places in the world where ships can sail directly into a flooded caldera. Its geothermal activity, black-sand beaches, and surreal landscape make it a highlight of many Antarctic cruises. Expect dramatic scenery, steaming shorelines, and curious wildlife like chinstrap penguins and Weddell seals. It’s remote, raw, and unforgettable.
How do I visit Deception Island?
You’ll need to join an Antarctic expedition cruise like those offered by Oceanwide Expeditions, most of which depart from Ushuaia, Argentina. You can fly here from several locations, including by low cost carriers from Buenos Aires. After crossing the Drake Passage, vessels make landings at key sites along the Antarctic Peninsula, with Deception Island often on the itinerary. Entry is via Neptune’s Bellows—a narrow, spectacular channel leading into the caldera. Landings are weather-dependent, but when conditions allow, visitors can hike volcanic trails or soak their feet in the warm sand. Flights to Antarctica are limited and don’t typically visit Deception Island, so cruising is the way to go. It can get cold, so make sure you visit Deception Island at the right time of year.
What happened at Deception Island?
This eerie island has seen it all—whaling, war, and volcanic eruptions. In the early 1900s, it was a hub for the whaling industry, and remnants of that era still litter the shore. During WWII, the British set up a secret base here as part of Operation Tabarin. Then, in the late 1960s, volcanic eruptions forced the evacuation of research stations. Today, rusting machinery, collapsed buildings, and steaming beaches tell the story of a place that’s as geologically active as it is historically rich.
Does anyone live on Deception Island?
No permanent residents here—just scientists and cruise visitors passing through. Research teams sometimes camp out during the austral summer to study the island’s volcanology, wildlife, and geology, but no one stays year-round. The abandoned research stations and whaling remnants are reminders of past human presence, but Deception Island remains largely untouched, protected by the Antarctic Treaty System and governed by strict conservation protocols.
Are the stories about Deception Island true?
Mostly, yes—and they’re wild enough without needing embellishment. This is a place where the ground steams, the landscape smoulders, and history lingers in ghostly ruins. Eruptions in the 1960s wiped out research bases. Crews from early whaling stations battled brutal conditions. And yes, you really can dig a shallow trench on the beach and feel hot water bubble up. While tales of ghosts and secret missions may be exaggerated, the atmosphere here is undeniably haunting—and completely real.
What birds can be seen on Deception Island?
Deception Island is home to a variety of bird species, including penguins, petrels, skuas, gulls, and other seabirds. Among the most commonly seen are Gentoo Penguins and Chinstrap Penguins, with large colonies of the latter. Petrels are also well represented, particularly Wilson’s Storm Petrels and Cape Petrels. South Polar Skuas and Brown Skuas are often observed in the area, while Kelp Gulls are another frequent sight. Other notable birds found on the island include Antarctic Shags, Snowy Sheathbills, and Antarctic Terns.
