We had been trekking all day, following the trails and footpaths that criss-cross Nepal and in many cases serve as their highways. Our destination for the night had been the small town of Ghorepani, situated on the banks of the Kali Gandaki river but as the sun had set behind the ridge we were climbing we decided to set camp before we lost the light. As the dusk turned to night we emerged out into a flat meadow and tents were quickly unpacked and erected.

By the hissing light of hurricane lamps the mess tent was erected and an hour later we found ourselves packed into this small oasis of light and heat, a stew in front of us and reminiscing on the highlights of the day. Walking in the foothills of Nepal is one of the most fulfilling adventures anyone can do. Lush green terraced fields rise up mountainsides on a scale it is hard to comprehend. Small villages of tidy thatched houses, each painted in whitewash and a rich ochre orange, add dabs of vivid colour enlivened further by the stacks of yellow maize stored beside them for the winter. Far below you a river will roar down its rocky bed, its noise amplified up to you by the hills. High above the rhododendron covered hill tops will look a lifetime away as you follow the trail towards them.

We sat with the gentle ache of relaxing muscles, drinking coffee and Kookari rum around the camp fire, before heading off to sleep like the dead on a bit of foam on the hard ground.

We were woken with a mug of tea at 5.30, the first light of dawn starting to light the tent interior and make the frozen condensation glisten. I hate mornings. I slurped my tea and, deciding to let more light in to help wake up, leant over and opened the tent door. What a view. In front of me was the whole Annapurna massif, its 4 main peaks, the south and the world-famous fish-tail of Machapuchure. Away to our left was Dhaulagiri, a daunting block of a mountain standing aloof and alone.

The sun's rays were lighting the peaks, a warm pink that seemed to be touching the summits and turning them to fire. Within minutes the sun itself peeped above the jagged horizon and with it a warmth for the body to match the feelings in my mind. Wow, it was good to be alive, even at 6 in the morning.